JACKSON, Wyo. — Over the weekend, a team of climbers replaced failing bolts on the Lower Blacktail Butte climbing wall.

The team replaced loose bolts, which had been installed on three routes around the year 2000, with modern, high-strength glue-in bolts on Sunday, July 20. Teton Climbers’ Coalition (TCC) published a blog post on Tuesday, July 22, detailing the undertaking.

The Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers, an elite search and rescue team in Grand Teton National Park, discovered the unsafe bolts on July 7, and made an announcement identifying which bolts were failing due to epoxy chipping away. According to the blog post, the Rangers then reached out to TCC to organize a response team. TCC secured the equipment and rounded up six skilled climbers, and the American Safe Climbing Association provided the hardware.

TCC Founder and Executive Director Christian Beckwith confirmed to Buckrail that the team of climbers consisted of Garrick Hart, Tom Hargis, Justin Tatosian, Hans Johnstone and Rob Werner, who are current or former TCC board members or part of the TCC stewardship team, and Jenny Lake Ranger Cody Evans.

The team was able to minimize the environmental impact on the rock wall and reuse the same holes for the new bolts by using a “time- and labor-intensive method that demands precision.”

“We were able to get the three lead bolts that [Jenny Lake Ranger] Zack [Little] found loose totally out, and reused the hole for new glue-ins,” said Hart, who participated in the repair. “We also shored up all three of the access anchors for the routes.”

The completed work includes replacement of the following bolts:

  • Inconceivable (5.11a) – bolt four and toprope access anchors
  • Do the Right Thing (5.11b/c) – bolts five and six and toprope access anchors
  • Time Flies When You’re Alive/Higher Education – toprope access anchors

“A detailed inspection of the remaining bolts at the lower crag confirmed that all other hardware is sound,” the blog post reads.

Climbers who encounter hardware suspected of being loose or failing are encouraged to report it to TCC through its Bad Bolt Form online.

Monica is a Staff Reporter who studied journalism at Syracuse University and has been in the valley since 2015. She loves writing about the local food and bev scene, especially craft beer. When she’s not on the clock, you can find her paddle boarding, sewing, or whipping up a new recipe at home.